HELP CENTRE

Welcome to our help centre where we answer all your questions on flooring, about us, installation, and customer services. If you can’t find the information you are looking for, please fill out our question box at the bottom of the page.

Customer Service
CHOOSING A FLOOR

Choosing the type of floor you want for your room can be difficult, in this helpful and easy guide, we will help you understand:

What flooring is suitable for your room
What each flooring type is made of
What the benefits of each floor is

WHAT FLOORING IS SUITABLE FOR YOUR ROOM?

Most floors can be laid in every room but there are some that may need more maintenance in certain areas and some that should be avoided. See the grid below to see what flooring is suitable for your room!

Suitable Flooring Grid
FLOORING COMPOSITION
SOLID WOOD Solid Wood
SOLID WOOD Solid wood floors are made of 100% natural solid wood cut and finished to create a charming authentic wooden floor that can last for a lifetime. Due to their moisture and heat sensitivity they are not suitable for every room but with their durable and hardwearing nature and the ability to be sanded, they will maintain their beauty from year to year. Learn more about solid wood
ENGINEERED WOOD Engineered Wood
ENGINEERED WOOD A solid wood top layer with a plywood (or HDF) base, Engineered Wood combines the authentic classic wood floor look and feel with added stability and reduced sensitivity to moisture and heat - meaning you can lay Engineered Wood in almost any room! This structurally solid wood floor can also be used with under floor heating! Learn more about engineered wood
LAMINATE Laminate Flooring
LAMINATE Laminate floors offer an impressive authentic wood and stone look at a fraction of the price. Using impressive photo technology, laminate is created using a photo image of a wood or stone floor in between a protective layer and high density backing layers. Available in a wide variety of spectacular designs, laminate is extremely versatile, highly resistant to splashes and scratches and incredibly easy to keep clean. Learn more about Laminate Flooring
LUXURY VINYL TILES (LVT) LVT Flooring
LUXURY VINYL TILES (LVT) Luxury Vinyl Tiles display stunning wood and stone effects with embossed textures, grooves and knots giving that natural genuine look and feel. Arriving as individual tiles, this floor is easy to maintain (simple brush or mop), super tough, moisture resistant (perfect for kitchens and bathrooms), slip & scratch resistant, durable and easy to install. LVT’s sound and heat insulation properties means no more cold floors and makes it a great, cost effective flooring option. Learn more about LVT
CARPET Carpet
CARPET Carpets are a great way of adding a splash of colour and softness to a room. Carpet can be made of various materials, e.g. Wool, Polypropylene or even natural materials such as sisal. The structure is made up of pile with either a gel or action back backing. There can be various pile types for carpets; Loop Pile -hard wearing; Twist pile - super soft; Saxony; ultra soft and luxurious; Thatched natural - strong and durable. Each pile type will create a unique look and feel underfoot. Learn more about Carpet
VINYL Vinyl
VINYL Wipe clean, and easy to maintain, vinyl flooring is perfect for areas of moisture (e.g. bathroom) or have have heavy traffic. With a wide variety of patterns and colours, Vinyl offers stylish looks that would look great in any room. Learn more about Vinyl
What type of flooring do you have a question about?
QUESTIONS ABOUT: CARPETS

Offering comfort, versaitlity & warmth, Carpets are perfect for most rooms in the home and come in a great range of colours and styles - so you can find the perfect option for you and your home!

Laying & Fitting Your Carpet
SHOULD I HIRE A PROFESSIONAL FITTER TO FIT MY CARPET?
Yes, we would recommend you to hire a fitter to lay your flooring. Professional fitters are knowledgeable with hands-on experience in their trade, they will understand the materials and stretch of each type of carpet and will be able to cut your carpet to size with precision - ensuring you get the best finish and look from your chosen carpet. If you are looking for a fitter why not use http://www.nicfltd.org.uk/ This is the recognised national institute of carpet and floorlayers. Just enter your postcode on the website and a list of approved fitters in your area will appear.
DO YOU OFFER A FITTING SERVICE?
No, we do not offer a fitting service, however we do recommend our customers to visit: http://www.nicfltd.org.uk/ This is the recognised national institute of carpet and floorlayers. Just enter your postcode on the website and a list of approved fitters in your area will appear.
CAN I LAY CARPET OVER UNDERFLOOR HEATING?
You can lay most carpets over underfloor heating, however there are some exceptions including Natural Carpets. If you are choosing to lay carpet over underfloor heating, your underlay and carpet must have a combined tog rating of less than 2.5 tog. If the tog rating is any higher the heat will not be able to permeate through the underlay and carpet.
For more information please contact our sales team and your Underfloor Heating Provider.
WHY DO YOU SELL CARPETS ONLY IN 4M AND 5M WIDTHS?
Our Carpets arrive in our factory in rolls of 4m and 5m widths (standard carpet widths). We cut our carpets in 0.25mt lengths from 2m -8m.
WHAT SIZE CARPET SHOULD I BUY?
Please use our calculator below to work out how much carpet you should buy. If you are buying carpet for your stairs or need more information, please contact our sales team.
I AM ORDERING MORE THAN ONE PIECE OF THE SAME FLOOR…
If you are ordering more than one piece of the same floor we strongly advise you to order the same width for both pieces so they are likely to come off the same roll. Different rolls of carpet can differ slightly in colour so ordering the same width will help avoid this.
Carpet Features
WHAT IS STAINBLOC TECHNOLOGY?
Stainbloc Technology is a special coating on the majority of our carpets which makes them extra resistant to stains and repels dirt and liquids – stopping them from settling in.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT PILE TYPES AVAILABLE?

The carpet pile is the bit that you stand on. The weight refers to the amount of yarn used to make the carpet. There are various different piles for a carpet, the two most common piles are loop pile and twist but there is also Saxony and Woven piles.


Loop Pile

A loop pile is when the material is threaded from underneath the carpet and goes up and under again giving it a loop effect.

Loop PileTwist Pile

The twist pile is made up of twisted fibres. Which are threaded through the backing and stays there, then another one is started.Twisted piles give a more textured look.

Twist PileSaxony Pile

Saxony piles are just like a twist pile but the pile is often cut at an angle giving it an even softer luxurious look and feel.

Saxony PileWoven Pile

A woven pile is where the pile and the backing yarns are woven together creating a strong and durable carpet.
Each pile type can be made up of either polypropylene, wool, sisal or nylon.

  • Polypropylene is very soft, manmade and easy to clean
  • Wool is harder wearing than Polypropylene and better quality but it is not bleach cleanable. Wool is resilient and also naturally stain-resistant.
  • Sisal is made of the highest-quality fibers of the agave plant. It Is a strong and natural carpet which is woven together to create its unique stylish look.
  • Nylon is durable, resilient and stain resistant.

Pile heights and weights vary, the heavier the pile the denser the carpet will be. A deeper pile has a more luxurious feel, but a short pile tends to be easier to care for.

Woven Pile
WILL MY CARPET HAVE A WARRANTY?
Most of our carpets have warranties. We offer two warranties; one for stains and one for wear. If your chosen carpet has a warranty it will be displayed on the product page.
Please visit our warranty page for more information.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CARPET BACKING?

Carpets come in three different types of backings, Felt, Action/Hessian and Woven.

  • Felt backing is a soft felt on the back of the carpet, it’s usually white or blue and will offer extra cushioning without underlay.
  • Action/Hessian backing is a combined backing of thread t offer a firmer backing, this means it’s hard wearing but underlay is essential.
  • Woven backing is very similar to Action/Hessian but it is created with better quality thread.

Using Underlay & Accessories
WHAT IS UNDERLAY?

Underlay is made up of recycled foam and comes in a range of thicknesses. Underlay is lain below a carpet to add extra:

  • Comfort underfoot
  • Heat insulation
  • Noise insulation
  • Increase the lifespan of the carpet.

DO I NEED UNDERLAY UNDERNEATH MY CARPET?

We strongly recommend that every carpet has a layer of underlay laid underneath as this will extend the life of and protect the carpet, add extra comfort, noise and heat insulation as well as help keep the warranty in check.
However, if you don’t want to use underlay, we advise you to buy a felt backed carpet.

CAN I LAY MY NEW CARPET ON EXISTING UNDERLAY?

We strongly advise customers to purchase new underlay when buying a new carpet to receive the most comfort and best performance from your flooring & give it the firm support it needs. Plus, it will also prolong the life of your carpet!
Although underlay doesn’t get any direct wear, it can gradually lose its comfort level, noise and heat insulation and can cause your carpet to flatten more quickly in the areas of the heaviest wear.

Carpet Maintenance
HOW DO I LOOK AFTER MY CARPET?

To look after your carpet you will need to vacuum it regularly and take care of any spillages quickly so they don’t stain. We do recommend that you get your carpets cleaned professionally every two to three years to help it maintain its look throughout its lifetime.

Other Questions
WHY IS MY CARPET CREASED?

When we cut our carpets, they are rolled around a cardboard tube then wrapped in our packaging ready for our special couriers to deliver them straight to our customers. Although we have the latest equipment and systems to ensure our carpets arrive in good condition, occasionally the weight of the carpet that is wrapped around the tube can cause a temporary crease at the overlap point. This is a common problem among textile deliveries however, the crease will gradually disappear after several weeks as you walk on and vacuum your carpet.

WHY ARE YOUR CARPETS SO LOW IN PRICE?

Due to purchasing in bulk and our extensive knowledge of carpets we can supply a superior product whilst maintaining the lowest prices on the market.

WHY DOES MY CARPET APPEAR TO HAVE SHADED AREAS?

If you have a deep pile carpet, the sides of the tufts will appear to be a lighter more silvery shade than when seen head on. As the carpet is used, lighter and darker patches may develop where the pile angles have been pushed in different directions due to foot traffic. This is quite common with carpets and does not indicate that the carpet is faulty.

QUESTIONS ABOUT: WOOD

ADDING A TOUCH OF ELEGANCE AND CHARACTER TO A ROOM, WOOD FLOORING OFFERS AN AUTHENTIC, RICH AND VERSATILE LOOK PERFECT FOR TRADITIONAL, MODERN OR EVEN MINIMILIST ROOMS.

WOOD TYPES, FINISHES & FEATURES
WOOD SPECIES

Our wood flooring is available in a range of different wood species. All of our woods are sustainable sourced.

OAK

  • The most popular of our hardwood species
  • We use slow grown, high density wood
  • Available in a wide range of colours
  • Distinctive straight and swirling graining patterns

WALNUT

  • We use American Black Walnut
  • Very elegant looking floor
  • Available in a huge variety of colours
  • A slightly softer wood than Oak
  • Unique grain patterns
  • Design statement

TEAK

  • A classic Hardwood
  • A very dense wood making it extremely hard
  • Has a red tinge to the board giving it a very elegant rich look

ACACIA

  • A hardwood species within the walnut family
  • Two types of Acacia; Big Leaf and Small Leaf
    • Big Leaf: Softer of the two types and is a fast grown tree in china
    • Small Leaf: Much harder type of Acacia, this is our Asian Walnut
  • Unique look

MAHOGANY

  • Straight grained reddish hardwood
  • Very dense
  • Luxurious look
  • Has very few knots making it one of the cleanest woods we sell

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN a BRUSHED & OILED AND LACQUERED FINISH?

Boards that have a brushed & oiled finish are more textured than lacquered boards, accentuating the grain of the wood, whereas lacquered boards have a smoother surface where you feel less of the timber grain. Our brushed & oiled boards use the highly regarded Klumpp & Osmo oil that is brushed into the grain, whereas our lacquer boards are coated with the strong Treffert lacquer.

WHAT IS ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING?

Has a plywood or HDF base – this is heat pressed and dried for two days.
Has a Solid wood top layer. This layer varies in thickness from 2mm-6mm.
The top layer can be sanded up to 5 times depending on the top layer of thickness. You can sand the floor once for every 1mm of thickness so long as 1mm of the thickness remains.
Has a much higher level of stability than solid wood.
Can be used with underfloor heating
Can be fitted as a floating floor meaning it can be removed and reinstalled easily.
The click system is a clicklock not a standard click making it far better and no need for glue.

WHAT IS SOLID WOOD FLOORING?

Provides a permanently fixed, quality floor, which will last a lifetime.
Can be sanded and refinished up to 7 times on a 22mm board
Will come with grooves in the back of the board to prevent the wood from cupping.
Once treated, has a drying time of 20-22 days. This means that the moisture content is reduced to 8-11% for the UK climate.

WHAT WOOD FINISHES ARE AVAILABLE?

All of our products are either oiled or lacquered but may have other finishes to them. This is what it all means.

Oiled
Rustic matt finish which gains character as it ages. Our oiled products are only oiled with the highest quality klumpp and Osmo oils to accentuate the natural wood grain.

Lacquered
A lacquered finish will provide a very smooth look and feel to the wood. All of our lacquered products are coated seven times with high quality Treffert lacquer.

Handscraped
A handscraped finish gives a slight bump effect to the wood. This is done by manually running a curved tool down the plank making every plank individual and unique.

Smoked/Fumed
Smoking/Fuming the wood brings the darker colours to the surface and infuses the colour throughout – so no matter how many times you sand it, the colour will be maintained. Our smoked/fumed products are produced using kilns to smoke treat the wood, the wood is kept in the kilns for 20 days. In the kilns, the wood shrinks a lot making it denser and even more hard wearing.

Stained/Coloured Finishes
All of our stained/coloured floors involve a coloured oil or lacquered being applied to the wood surface. All colours are pre-mixed to ensure an even colouration of the wood.

Deep Brushed Products
These woods are deep brushed by hand with a wire brush. This removes the weaker parts of the wood leaving only the toughest grains and knots.

WHAT IS A HARDWOOD LAYER?

A hardwood layer is an oak or timber product on top of plywood, as used in engineered wood flooring. This comes in various different thicknesses, ranging from 2.5mm to 8mm - the thicker products are, the higher the quality.

WHAT IS WBP PLYWOOD?

WBP is an abbreviation of Water Boil Proof. This technology ensures that the plywood and the glue used to bind the layers together are resistant to moisture. All our boards are WBP as standard - ensuring a top end plywood base no matter what your requirements.

ARE SOLID AND ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING SCRATCH RESISTANT?

Wood flooring is relatively scratch resistant for every day use, however sharp stones, sand or heavy furniture being dragged can scratch your floor.
To avoid scratches:

  • Use foam pads on the bottom of furniture e.g. table and chair legs.
  • Make sure your computer chair has soft wheels
  • Lay a doormat to avoid stones on the bottom of shoes from going to straight on your floor
  • Sweep debris up regular to avoid it being dragged across the floor
You can sand and re-finish your floor (please see how long does flooring last for more information) to get rid of your scratches but this is normally done every 9 or 10 years.

WHAT IS HANDSCRAPED WOOD FLOORING?

Handscraped is a special finish which gives a slight bumpy effect to the floor. This is done by running a curved tool down the plank by hand - making every board unique.

HOW LONG DOES WOOD FLOORING LAST?

Wood flooring has the longest lifespan of any flooring available. Its thickness whether Engineered (depending on the top layer) or Solid allows you to sand the wood down and refinish over and over – so if your wood is looked after, it can last for generations! Wood flooring is normally sanded around every 9 or 10 years.
How many times can you sand and refinish:

  • Solid Wood – You can sand and refinish Solid Wood Flooring four or five times
  • Engineered Wood – You can sand and refinish Engineered Wood once for ever 1mm of solid wood top layer it has as long as there is 1mm of thickness remaining. For example, if your Engineered wood has a 5mm top layer, you will be able to sand it four times.
Please note that if you sand some styles of wood e.g. Stained or Handscraped you will lose these effects.

THICKNESS

Our team of wood experts only buy the best quality and high value flooring which is why our Solid Woods are at least 11mm thick (going up to 22mm thick) and our Engineered boards go from 9mm up to 21mm thick. The thicker the board, the longer the wood will last!

WIDTH

Our wood boards come in a wide range of widths from super narrow to extra wide. Each width creates a different look in a room for instance; the narrower planks can make a small room look much bigger where the bigger boards will look cleaner and subtler. It’s completely up to you what look you want to go for!

IS WOOD FLOORING WATER RESISTANT?

Due to the natural nature of Solid Wood Flooring, it isn’t as resistant to water as other floors. Any spills should not be left, as it will seep between the boards, which may lead to warping and damage to your floor. It is therefore advise against laying Solid Wood in Bathrooms.

Engineered Wood Flooring is more resistant to humid, wet environments than other floors due to its strong stable structure however it is not waterproof. You can use engineered wood in kitchens (a lacquered finish will provide better protection) but as with solid wood flooring, any spills should be cleared up immediately to avoid the liquid seeping through the boards and causing warping or damage. We do not recommend laying Engineered Wood in Bathrooms.

ORDERING, LAYING AND FITTING WOOD FLOORING
CAN I USE UNDERFLOOR HEATING WITH MY WOOD FLOORING?

Our Engineered Wood floors are great for use with under floor heating (depending on the specification of the underfloor heating system). We would never recommend solid wood flooring for use with underfloor heating.

WHO CAN FIT MY FLOORING?

Engineered and solid wood floors can be fitted by yourself or joiners, rather than carpet fitters. We do recommend you to hire an experienced fitter to lay your floor, the yellow pages is a good way of finding a local joiner!

WHAT TYPE OF PREPARATION DOES MY FLOORING NEED?

Before laying your wood floor you will need to make sure all debris has been cleared, that the subfloor is as level as possible (if wood slats, make sure they are secured with no nails sticking out) and the sub-floor is at the correct humidty/moisture level for wood flooring.

Depending on the type of flooring you are laying and what sub-floor you are laying your flooring on will determine what options you have for laying your floor. For more information please contact our sales team.
Wood Preparation

DO I NEED ANY UNDERLAY OR GLUE TO FIT MY FLOORING?

When laying your solid wood or engineered wood flooring you will require either glue, screws or pins, depending on the type of floor you are laying your new flooring upon. Engineered and solid wood floors are natural products and will move over time, so it is essential that it is fitted correctly.
Wood Preparation

DO YOU OFFER A FITTING SERVICE?

Fitting is now available, please get in touch with your local store. For more information, click here.

WOOD MAINTENANCE
HOW DO I CARE FOR MY SOLID/ENGINEERED WOOD FLOOR?

You will need to regularly clean and care for your wood flooring to ensure its maximum lifespan - we offer specially designed kits for cleaning brushed & oiled and lacquered floors. It is important to avoid mopping these natural floors, as water and moisture will make the floor move - therefore we advise using the products on offer in our "protection" area of our accessories with a dry mop.

CAN I USE A STEAM MOP ON WOOD FLOORING?

We advise against the use of a steam mop on wood flooring.

OTHER QUESTIONS
WHY ARE WIDER BOARDS MORE EXPENSIVE?

Wider boards of flooring are much rarer and are cut from the middle of the tree making them a lot cleaner and a better grade of wood.

WHY IS YOUR WOOD FLOORING SO LOW IN PRICE?

Due to purchasing in bulk and our extensive knowledge of hardwood flooring we can supply a superior product whilst maintaining the lowest prices on the market.

DO YOU SOURCE YOUR WOOD SUSTAINABLY?

All of our wood comes from carefully selected sustainable sources, having minimal effect on the environment. For each of our woods we hold certificates of origin and can provide a Chain of Custody.

QUESTIONS ABOUT: VINYL

WATER RESISTANT, SCRATCH RESISTANT AND EASY TO MAINTAIN, VINYL IS AVAILABLE IN A RANGE OF PATTERNS AND COLOURS MAKING IT PERFECT FOR ANY ROOM IN THE HOME – PARTICULARLY THOSE MORE PRONE TO SPILLS (E.G. THE BATHROOM AND KITCHEN!)

VINYL FEATURES
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF VINYL FLOORING?

There are many benefits of Vinyl Flooring. Vinyl is extremely versatile and durable, with its great range of colours and styles it is able to match any décor. Plus, it is easy to clean, scratch and water resistant, simple to install and un-expensive!

HOW DOES VINYL FLOORING FEEL UNDERFOOT?

Vinyl flooring has been manufactured to feel soft underfoot. The thicker the vinyl you choose the softer and more comfortable your floor will be.

HOW HARDWEARING IS VINYL FLOORING?

Vinyl flooring is extremely durable and easy to maintain, plus with its moisture, scratch and stain resistance it is perfect for high traffic rooms throughout the home.

IS VINYL FLOORING SCRATCH RESISTANT?

Yes, Vinyl flooring is scratch resistant.

ORDERING, LAYING AND FITTING
DO I NEED TO LAY UNDERLAY UNDERNEATH MY VINYL?

You do not need to lay underlay underneath your vinyl and if you are sticking your vinyl down you will not be able to use underlay.

DOES MY VINYL NEED TO BE STUCK DOWN?

Vinyl does not need to be stuck down but it is better if it is. To stick it down you can use our special vinyl spray adhesive

CAN YOU LAY UNDER-FLOOR HEATING UNDERNEATH VINYL FLOORING?

Yes, you can lay vinyl flooring over under-floor heating however the combined tog rating of your vinyl and underlay must not be more than 2.5 tog to ensure the heat is able to permeate throughout the floor.

WHERE CAN I LAY VINYL IN MY HOME?

Due to its water-resistance and durability, vinyl flooring is suitable for every room in the home! It is very popular in bathroom and kitchens where spills are more likely to occur.

WHY DO YOU SELL VINYLS ONLY IN 2M, 3M AND 4M WIDTHS?

Our Vinyls arrive in our factory in rolls of 2m, 3m and 4m widths (standard Vinyl widths). We cut our Vinyl in 0.25mt lengths from 2m - 10m.

I AM ORDERING MORE THAN ONE PIECE OF THE SAME FLOOR…

If you are ordering more than one piece of the same floor we strongly advise you to order the same width for both pieces so they are likely to come off the same roll. Different rolls of vinyl can differ slightly in colour so ordering the same width will help avoid this.

VINYL MAINTENANCE
HOW DO I MAINTAIN VINYL FLOORING?

Vinyl flooring is easy cleanable and easy to maintain through regular cleaning. By brushing away and debris and cleaning your vinyl with a damp mop every 1-2 weeks you will be able to keep your vinyl in top condition. Ensure that spills are cleared immediately and that liquids are not sat on the surface of your vinyl flooring for a long period of time as this can cause damage.

The use of a rug or mat will also help maintain your floor as it will protect it from lots of traffic and reduce the risk of damage.

OTHER QUESTIONS
DOES MY VINYL COME WITH A WARRANTY?

Some of our vinyl flooring has a warranty. If your product comes complete with a warranty, you will find the information listed on the product page.

QUESTIONS ABOUT: LVT

WATER-RESISTANT, SCRATCH RESISTANT WITH THE LOOK OF REAL STONE AND WOOD, LVT IS A LUXRIOUS FLOORING SUITABLE FOR ANYWHERE IN THE HOME!

LVT FEATURES
WHAT IS LVT?

A premium version of Vinyl flooring, Luxury Vinyl Tiles display stunning wood and stone effects with embossed textures, grooves and knots giving that natural genuine look and feel. Arriving as individual tiles, this floor is easy to maintain (simple brush or mop), super tough, moisture resistant (perfect for kitchens and bathrooms), slip & scratch resistant, durable and easy to install. LVT’s sound and heat insulation properties means no more cold floors and make it a great, cost effective flooring option. It can even be used over under-floor heating!


LVT

The main difference between Vinyl and LVT is that LVT is sold as separate individual tiles in boxes rather than in a roll. This means you are able to choose the way you want to lay your floor, whether in a parquet stile or in rows (there are a huge range of possibilities), combine two different colours of LVT together and even add feature strips (available in a range of colours) to create a grouting effect. LVT is manufactured with detailed designs and textures offering an amazing realistic appearance, plus with the thicker wear layer and sturdy durable tiles LVT is a much higher quality of flooring than Vinyl and more resistant to dents and scratches.

IS LVT FLOORING SCRATCH RESISTANT?

Yes, the top coating of LVT is scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Sharp objects can scratch the floor so it is important to put certain preventions in place:

  • The use of a doormat is advised to reduce sharp stones and sand from your shoes scratching the floor on entering your home.
  • Sticking foam bottoms onto the legs of chairs, tables, cabinets etc. to avoid scratching as they are moved
  • Office chairs should have soft wheels to avoid scratching on movement
  • Ensuring hoover wheels rotate freely so they are not catching on your floor

IS LVT WATER RESISTANT?

All of our LVT flooring is waterproof, which makes it the perfect flooring for areas, which are prone to spillages e.g. Kitchen and Bathroom.

WHAT EFFECTS CAN I CHOOSE FROM IN YOUR LVT RANGE?

WOOD EFFECT
If you want the authentic wood look in your bathroom or kitchen LVT is perfect with its premium wood look and moisture resistance!

STONE EFFECT
Our stone effect LVT’s give the classic stone or ceramic floor look but with added warmth and comfort underfoot.

ORDERING, LAYING AND FITTING LVT
DO I NEED TO LAY UNDERLAY UNDERNEATH MY LVT?

Unless your LVT has a click system you will need to stick down your LVT to your subfloor. If your LVT has a click system you can choose to lay underlay underneath.

DOES MY LVT NEED TO BE STUCK DOWN?

LVT without the click system will need to be stuck down to the sub-floor with a compact adhesive. Click here to view our range of adhesives.

If you are purchasing LVT with a click system you do not need to stick the flooring down and you can choose to lay underlay underneath.

WHERE CAN I LAY LVT IN MY HOME?

Due to LVT’s highly moisture-resistant and durable nature, LVT is ideal for all areas of the house including bathrooms and kitchens where spillages are more likely!

CAN I LAY LVT OVER UNDER-FLOOR HEATING?

Yes, you can lay LVT over under-floor heating as long as the top floor surface does not exceed temperatures of more than 27 degrees.

WHICH DIRECTION SHOULD I LAY MY LVT?

You can install your LVT boards either length ways or breadth ways or even in a parquet design depending on the look you are trying to achieve. You will achieve the best look if you lay it in the direction of the main light source or the length of the room as this will make the room look bigger.

LVT MAINTENANCE
HOW DO I MAINTAIN LVT FLOORING?

Just like Vinyl flooring LVT is easy to clean and maintain. Using a broom, microfiber cloth, vacuum or damp mop with approved detergents on a regular basis will keep your LVT in top condition. Any spillages must be cleaned up immediately to avoid any damage.

We advise against the use of aggressive cleaning agents on your floor, the use of steam cleaners or to let puddles of water remain after cleaning as this may damage your floor.

CAN I USE A STEAM CLEANER ON LVT?

We advise against the use of a steam cleaner as it can cause distortion in the boards and there is a higher risk of floor damage. The steam can also enter through the joints and dissolve the adhesive bonding.

OTHER QUESTIONS
DOES MY LVT COME WITH A WARRANTY?

Yes, LVT comes with two warranties, residential and commercial. How long your LVT’s warranty lasts for will be listed on the product page.

WHAT ARE FEATURE STRIPS?

Feature strips are thin strips of LVT which are used to create the lines/grout in between the tiles to create a more authentic wood or stone look. They come in a range of colours and can be used to create a natural or unique stylish finish.

QUESTIONS ABOUT: ARTIFICIAL GRASS

WITH THE NATURAL LOOK OF GRASS AND ITS SUPERSOFT TEXTURES, ARTIFICIAL GRASS DELIVERS AN ALL YEAR ROUND PERFECT LAWN WITHOUT THE NEED TO MOW, WIPE UP MUDDY PAWPRINTS OR WORRY ABOUT IT DRYING OUT – MAKING YOUR LIFE THAT LITTLE BIT EASIER!

ORDERING, LAYING AND FITTING ARTIFICIAL GRASS
WHERE CAN I INSTALL ARTIFICIAL GRASS?

Your artificial grass can be laid on hard surfaces and can be easily installed to replace your existing lawn. Hard surfaces that are common for laying artificial grass can include roof terraces, play areas, outside offices, around caravans, pathways, driveways, balconies and commercial areas; all provided that drainage is good. When replacing an existing lawn with your artificial grass, please make sure the ground is prepared suitably beforehand.

CAN ARTIFICIAL GRASS BE FITTED OVER DECKING?

Artificial grass can be fitted over a wide range of surfaces. See our DIY installation page for further details. When fitting over decking, a soft foam underlay is best to use prior to fitting.

CAN I ORDER A 2M AND A 4M PIECE OF THE SAME GRASS?

We would advise against ordering two different widths of the same grass if they are for the same area. Different rolls of Artificial Grass can differ slightly in colour variation. We do advise you to order the same widths for all pieces in this situation as this will limit the colour variation of the pile.

WHY IS THE PILE DIRECTION IMPORTANT?

With the majority of fake grass products you should always consider which way you want to lay the grass when received. The artificial lawn will look slightly lighter from one direction and darker from another, so it’s important to decide which way your lawn will face before it is fitted. When you receive your artificial grass from Grass Direct, it’s always best to roll it out slightly in all directions to see which you prefer.

Different rolls of Artificial Grass can differ slightly in colour variation. If you are ordering two or more pieces of Artificial Grass that will be joined together please inform us upon placing your order so we can make every effort to ensure cuts are taken from the same roll where possible. (This is not a guaranteed service and we cannot be held responsible for slight colour variation which occurs as a result of cuts being taken from different rolls.) We do advise you to order the same widths for all pieces in this situation as this will limit the colour variation.

Be sure when placing & joining two or more pieces together, that the pile direction runs in the same direction. Always check before fully fitting two pieces together by taking a step back and checking the pile runs in the same direction. Never try to fit your grass at different angles as this will highlight the join and may cause colour variation between the pieces.

DO YOU OFFER A FITTING SERVICE?

Fitting is now available, please get in touch with your local store. For more information, click here.

HOW MUCH ARTIFICIAL GRASS DO I NEED?

The best way to work out the area you need when looking to buy artificial grass, is to draw an accurate plan on squared graph paper if you have some available. Simply measure the width and length of your area, at the largest point, taking into account any extra areas you may need to cover if your garden isn’t square or rectangular in size.

If worked out accurately, you may then be able to calculate exactly how much artificial grass you would need to cover your garden area, but if in doubt, the simplest method is to multiply those two largest dimensions in order to get your covering area. Always try to work in metres rather than feet and inches, but for reference the majority of products available from Grass Direct are found in 2m (6ft 6’’) & 4m (13ft) widths.

Please bear in mind that based on these widths, you may need two or more cuts in order to cover your desired area with artificial grass. Should you need two or more cuts, feel free to check our DIY installation guide for further detail on how to successfully join the two pieces for a seamless finish.

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO ABOUT DRAINAGE?

No need to worry when buying artificial grass from Grass Direct. The majority of our ranges have porous bases and will drain 100% provided the area beneath has good drainage.

ARTIFICIAL GRASS MAINTENANCE
HOW DO I CLEAN MY ARTIFICIAL GRASS?

Cleaning your artificial grass from Grass Direct is as simple as a quick rinse. We recommend the use of our specially formulated artificial grass cleaners in order to clean thoroughly and get rid of stubborn stains.

HOW DO I MAINTAIN MY ARTIFICIAL GRASS?

Grass Direct artificial grass is very easy to maintain. Nothing more than a quick brush to remove debris such as leaves, twigs and seeds; and your artificial grass will continue to look fantastic all year round. Not only that, but brushing also helps to keep that natural looking Grass pile without the hassle of mowing, weeding and watering.

OTHER QUESTIONS
IS ARTIFICIAL GRASS SUITABLE FOR PETS?

Yes, Grass Direct artificial lawns are ideal for dogs and cats to play on. All of our products can be easily cleaned using a garden hose, warm water and mild detergent, or even with a good rainfall. Our Artificial Grass is very durable and manufactured to stand the test of time.

IS ARTIFICIAL GRASS SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN?

All of our artificial grasses are safe for children to play on just as if it were your normal garden area. We would advise that for artificial grasses laid in public or commercial areas that cater for children; such as play centres, play warehouses etc, correct shockpad / underlay must be installed to accommodate the correct fall heights.

WILL WEEDS GROW UP THROUGH MY NEW LAWN?

To protect against weeds, we recommend that you apply weed killer to the area prior to fitting our Grass Direct membrane. This combination should provide you with the perfect defence against weeds.

WILL MY ARTIFICIAL GRASS FADE IN THE SUN?

No. Our products are fully UV stabilized and carry a minimum guarantee of 5 years against fading from sun exposure, meaning your grass will stay green all year round!

ARE SYNTHETIC LAWNS DIY PRODUCTS?

Artificial grass is quite simple to lay and this can be a very cost-effective solution compared with hiring a local landscaper. If you’re at all un-sure, then feel free to contact us for further advice, or check out our DIY installation guide, which gives you a step by step guide to fitting an artificial lawn on almost any suitable surface.

CAN I BECOME A RECOMMENDED CONTRACTOR/INSTALLER?

We are always looking to expand our range of recommended fitters and installers. Please feel free to contact us with any queries you may have and we can discuss a range of opportunities with you.

QUESTIONS ABOUT: LAMINATE

DURABLE AND SCRATCH RESISTANT WITH THE LOOK OF REAL STONE AND WOOD, LAMINATE ADDS AN AIR OF AUTHENTICITY TO ANY ROOM AT A FRACTION OF THE PRICE!

LAMINATE FEATURES
WHAT IS LAMINATE FLOOR?

Laminate Flooring is a manufactured wood which is finished with a real wood or stone effect.

Laminate Flooring is manufactured in layers. The bottom layer is designed to resist moisture from the ground beneath that could cause the boards to warp or rise. Above this is a high-density fiberboard, which adds to the moisture barrier and increases the floorings durability. The next layer has a high-resolution image is applied to it to give the appearance of real wood or stone. Some laminates also have a texture added to it to enhance the look and make it more natural. The top layer is the wear layer, this clear coat protects the design from fading, scratches and everyday wear and tear.

One of the key benefits of laminate is their click system, this makes them easier and quicker to install.

WHY CHOOSE LAMINATE FLOORING?

Laminate is durable and hard wearing and is less likely to dent and scratch than solid wood flooring. This alongside its easy to clean surface makes it an ideal choice for busy households. A lot of people choose laminate due to it being a cost-effective alternative to wood flooring as it is a lot cheaper to purchase and install.

As the manufacturing process of laminate has developed and due to the use of state-of-the-art machinery, laminate looks more and more like real wood and stone - it can be difficult to distinguish between it and a real wood floor.

The materials used to construct laminate doesn’t absorb dirt which makes it very hygienic and good for dust allergy sufferers.

DOES MY LAMINATE COME WITH A WARRANTY?

All of our laminates come with a residential and commercial warranty. The length each product is under warranty for is shown on each product page.

IS LAMINATE FLOORING SCRATCH RESISTANT?

Due to the advances in manufacturing laminate Flooring is now virtually scratch resistant. General wear and tear from every day use should not show itself in your flooring. However, be careful when moving furniture and heavy/sharp items along your floor as this could cause scratches. We do advise you to use felt pads on the bottom of furniture e.g. chairs, couches etc. to avoid this occurrence.

ARE LAMINATE FLOORS WATER RESISTANT?

Laminate flooring is resistant to spills and splashes but it is not suitable for the bathroom and kitchen environment where humidity and water spills are quite frequent as this may distort and damage your laminate floor. Any spillages must be cleared up immediately.

The only laminate range, which is suitable for the bathroom and kitchen, is the Krono Stoneline range.

THICKNESS

The thickness of our laminate flooring varies from 6mm to 12mm. The thicker the floor, the easier it is to lay, the quieter the floor is to walk on and better the durability.

WIDTH

Our laminates come in a range of widths. The narrower the laminate planks the larger it will make your room look.

ORDERING, LAYING & FITTING LAMINATE
WHERE CAN I LAY LAMINATE IN MY HOME?

You can lay laminate flooring in living rooms, hallways and bedrooms. Our ranges of laminate range are not suitable for bathrooms due to the added moisture content in the room which could lead the flooring to warp.

WHICH DIRECTION SHOULD I LAY MY LAMINATE FLOOR?

You can lay your laminate in any direction you wish, it is a matter of personal taste.
Laying your flooring in the direction as the main light source or along the length of the room can create a more attractive look and can make your room look bigger.

CAN I INSTALL UNDER-FLOOR HEATING UNDER LAMINATE FLOORING?

Yes, laminate flooring can be laid over Under-floor heating systems. If you plan to do this we do recommend that the compatible underlay is used to ensure the performance of your heating system is not weakened. When purchasing your under-floor heating we advise you to check with your supplier whether your choice is suitable for laminate flooring.

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO BEFORE/AFTER LAYING MY LAMINATE?

Before you lay your laminate:

  • Ensure your floor is level and dry to avoid any damage to the boards.
  • Open all your boxes up and let it breathe and acclimatize to your home for at least 24 hours prior to installation.


Once you have fitted your laminate, try and keep your rooms at a constant temperature of around 18-26 Degrees for 24 hours to let your flooring settle.

SHOULD I LEAVE AN EXPANSION GAP WHEN FITTING LAMINATE?

Yes, a 10mm expansion gap should be left at each edge to allow for heat and humidity changes.

WHAT DO I NEED TO USE/DO TO LAY MY LAMINATE?

Before you lay your Laminate you must ensure that your sub-floor is prepared. This includes ensuring your sub-floor:

  • Is dry (if it is a newly laid concrete floor it must be completely dry)
  • Is level
  • Is firm
  • Has all of its floorboards firmly screwed down

Choosing what you need to put between your laminate and your sub-floor depends on what your sub-floor is made of. Never use carpet underlay underneath laminate flooring.

If you have a concrete floor you must always put down a damp-proof membrane (DPM) to stop any moisture coming through.

For Laminate, you must lay an underlay over the full sub-floor over dry DPM (if concrete) or your timber floorboards before placing down your Laminate.

OTHER LAMINATE QUESTIONS
HOW MUCH SHOULD I SPEND ON LAMINATE FLOORING?

As with most flooring, you generally get what you pay for. Therefore a more expensive laminate floor will be of better quality and will last longer and will usually be thicker.

CAN LAMINATE FLOORING HELP REDUCE ALLERGENS?

Yes, due to the closed joints between the boards it helps to eradicate dust and dust mites which thrive on carpets etc. from building up.

LAMINATE MAINTENANCE
HOW DO I LOOK AFTER MY LAMINATE FLOOR?

Looking after your laminate starts even before you lay it down on your floor. Before laying your laminate, you must ensure that the existing sub-floor is completely flat, dry and free of any items as moisture and uneven surfaces can damage the planks.

To keep your laminate in tiptop condition, you simply need to regularly sweep or vacuum the surface to avoid any build up of grit or dirt, which could scratch, wear or damage your laminate.

We would advise you:

  • To use felt pads underneath your furniture to avoid any scratches
  • To use a mat in high traffic areas e.g. Front or back doors to avoid damage to your flooring.
  • Against wearing high heels whilst walking across your laminate to avoid any indentations.
If any spills occur on your laminate, you must ensure that they are immediately cleaned up using a dry cloth so the moisture doesn’t soak into your floor. Using a wet cloth or mop should be avoided as the moisture could cause your laminate to expand or even warp if it seeps between the board joins.

When cleaning your laminate, you should use a pre-approved Laminate Flooring cleanser to avoid any damage. To finish use a dry cloth to dry up any moisture used.

CAN CASTORS BE PUT ON LAMINATE FLOOR?

Yes, you can put Castors on laminate floor however they can damage your flooring if the correct protective measures aren’t put in place.

If possible use soft castors, to limit the damage cause it will also improve the sitting comfort (if on a chair/sofa) compared to hard castors.

Otherwise use a hard floor protective mat underneath the castors.

GENERAL: FAQs

We may have the answer to your question below...

THE COMPANY
WHAT IS YOUR WARRANTY POLICY?

Go to the following page - our warranties

WHAT ARE YOUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS?

Go to the following page - Terms & Conditions

DO YOU HAVE ANY STORES?

We have a collection of shops across the country - click here to view our store finder!

DO YOU HAVE ANY REVIEWS?

Yes, we have a large bank of reviews from our customers which you can see if you click on the review icon on the left hand side of your page or on each individual product that the review relates to.

ORDERS
I WOULD LIKE TO AMEND MY ORDER

If you would like to amend your order e.g. change the product you have ordered or the amount, please contact our Customer Services team.
Please note that we are only able to amend orders up to 36 hours before delivery.

I WOULD LIKE TO CANCEL MY ORDER

If you would like to cancel your order please contact our Customer Services team.

HOW DO I PLACE AN ORDER?

You can place an order by using either the website or contacting our Sales team.

To place an order online all you need to do is:

1. Find the product that you would like on the website 2. Enter the required quantity and press Add to Basket 3. Go to your basket and proceed to checkout 4. Enter your contact details and specify a delivery date 5. Enter your payment details into our secure checkout system 6. Once this has been completed you will receive an email with confirmation of your order and all the information you require.

If you are wanting to place the order by phone, you will just need to provide our sales team with the required measurements, contact and payment details and they will go through every step with you. At the end of the call you will receive an email with confirmation of your order and all the information you require.

CAN I ORDER FREE SAMPLES?

Yes, you can order up to six free samples. Please visit out free samples page for more information.

HOW DO I CLAIM A PRICE MATCH?

Here at Flooring Superstore we pride ourselves on pricing high quality products at extremely low prices to help our customers achieve their dream homes for less.

We believe that our prices are the lowest on the market, but if you find one of our products in another store cheaper, we’ll MATCH the cost and even take off an EXTRA 10%!

That’s a promise!

For more information, please see our terms & conditions, contact us directly via the contact us form.

PROMOTIONAL CODES

If you have a discount code, you can enter it in the Discount Code box in your shopping basket. The code will then deduct the specified amount from the total cost of your products. You will see the deduction in the checkout where there is a breakdown of the costs.

Please note: Only one promotional code can be used per order. The code will not deduct anything from the delivery cost.

If your discount code is not working the most likely explanation is that it has expired. If you are having problems with a code you believe to still be running please contact us via live chat, get in touch via our contact form.

CAN I CHANGE MY ACCOUNT DETAILS?

If you would like to change your account details, you can do this by contacting our Customer Service.

PAYMENT
PAYMENT TYPES

We accept the following payment methods:

  • Visa / Visa Electron
  • Mastercard
  • Maestro
  • American Express
  • PayPal
  • Amazon Pay

We offer a variety of finance options, for more information visit our finance page.

We do not accept any cash or cheque payments.

WHEN WILL I BE CHARGED?

You will be charged for your order as soon as you have clicked the Place Order button and your bank has accepted the transaction. However, you may not see it on your bank transaction report for a couple of days.

IS IT SAFE TO ENTER MY PAYMENT DETAILS ONLINE?

Yes, our site is safe and secure to use and enter your payment details. We ensure that all data passed between customers and us is fully protected by using the latest security standards, including 256bit encryption and a 2048bit root. We do this through a security certificate granted by GeoTrust, Inc. - the team that protects the internet's 1 million most visited domains.

Using SSL technology keeps your shopping experience confidential and secure. We also do not store payment card information, your details are securely processed by WorldPay - the UK's largest merchant service provider!

I’M UNCERTAIN ABOUT PURCHASING GOODS ONLINE – IS THERE ANOTHER WAY I CAN ORDER?

Yes, although our website is completely secure we understand that not everyone is happy with purchasing online. Therefore we also have the option of placing your order over the phone. Our Sales team would be more than happy to take your order. Get in touch.

DO YOU OFFER INTEREST FREE CREDIT?

In short, yes. Please visit our finance page for more information.

WHY HAS MY PAYMENT BEEN REFUSED?

Your payment could have been refused for a number of reasons. If you contact our Sales team they will be able to have a look into this for you.

I HAVEN’T RECEIVED A RECEIPT FOR MY ORDER

If you haven’t received a receipt for your order, please check in your junk and spam in your email account to ensure it hasn’t gone into the wrong folder. If it is not there, please contact our Customer Services team.

DELIVERY
WHEN WILL MY FLOORING BE DELIVERED?

When placing your order you can specify the working day (from three working days after your order is placed) you would like your order to be delivered on. Your order will then be delivered on your specified day between 7am and 6pm.

If your order is to be delivered by one of our vans you will receive a text message the day before with an estimated delivery time for your order. Please allow for half an hour either side of this delivery time to allow for traffic.

Alternatively you can track your order via our tracking page.

If one of our external couriers are delivering your order we are unable to specify a time of delivery. You can however contact our Customer Service team on the day of delivery, who will put you in contact with your local depot who may be able to help you further.

WHERE IS MY ORDER?

If you are looking for the date your order will be delivered you can find it specified on your email receipt. If you didn’t specify a date of your delivery, please contact our Customer Service team. If you would like to check what status your order is at you can track your order via our tracking page.


If your order is to be delivered by one of our vans you will receive a text message the day before with an estimated delivery time for your carpet. Please allow for half an hour either side of this delivery time to allow for traffic.


If one of our external couriers are delivering your order we are unable to specify a time of delivery. You can however contact our customer service team on the day of delivery, who will put you in contact with your local depot who may be able to help you further. If your order was not delivered when specified please contact our Customer Service.

INTERNATIONAL DELIVERY

We do not currently ship our products internationally.

UK DELIVERY POLICY/COST

STANDARD DELIVERY: £39.95

WITH THIS SERVICE YOU CAN SELECT A WEEKDAY DELIVERY DATE OF YOUR PREFERENCE (EXCLUDING WEEKENDS AND BANK HOLIDAYS), FROM A MINIMUM OF THREE WORKING DAYS FROM WHEN YOU PLACE YOUR ORDER.

THIS DELIVERY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE FOR ALL UK MAINLAND ADDRESSES.

CHOSEN DELIVERY DATES ARE UPHELD WHERE POSSIBLE. IN THE CIRCUMSTANCE WHERE THIS CAN'T BE ADHERED TO, A MEMBER OF OUR CUSTOMER SERVICE TEAM WILL CONTACT YOU TO ARRANGE A CONVENIENT TIME FOR YOU.

WE DO ADVISE ALL CUSTOMERS NOT TO BOOK A FITTER FOR YOUR FLOORING UNTIL YOU HAVE RECEIVED IT AND YOU ARE HAPPY WITH YOUR FLOORING.

HIGHLANDS DELIVERIES

DELIVERIES MADE TO HIGHLANDS POSTCODES WILL BE CHARGED THIS PRICE DEPENDENT ON THE ITEMS ORDERED. YOU WILL BE NOTIFIED IF YOUR POSTCODE QUALIFIES FOR THIS PRICE ON ENTERING YOUR ADDRESS DURING YOUR ORDER.

PLEASE NOTE WHEN CHOOSING YOUR DELIVERY DATE THAT HIGHLANDS DELIVERIES CAN TAKE 3-5 WORKING DAYS. IN CASES OF OFFSHORE ISLANDS LIKE STORNOWAY, ORKNEY, SHETLANDS, THERE MAY BE AN ADDITIONAL CHARGE AND WE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO DELIVER AT ALL.


PLEASE NOTE:

THE DELIVERY SCHEDULE IS UPHELD WHERE POSSIBLE AND COMPLETED BETWEEN APPROXIMATELY 7AM - 6PM.

DELIVERY IS TO A GROUND FLOOR LOCATION ONLY, ACCESS PERMITTING AND IS A CURBSIDE ONLY DELIVERY.

YOUR ORDER WILL BE DELIVERED BY EITHER OUR FLEET OF VANS OR SELECTED COURIER SERVICE. THE COURIERS ARE UNABLE TO CALL PRIOR TO DELIVERING YOUR ITEMS.


OUR DELIVERY NETWORK

EVERY ORDER IS DELIVERED BY EITHER OUR ADVANCED IN-HOUSE DELIVERY NETWORK (WITH AN EVER-GROWING FLEET OF VANS), OR THROUGH A SPECIALLY CHOSEN COURIER. EACH METHOD OF TRANSPORT IS FULLY EQUIPPED TO HANDLE ALL OF OUR FLOORING PRODUCTS.

OUR VANS CURRENTLY COVER 95% OF THE UK - THE FOLLOWING 5% TO FOLLOW SOON!

CAN I COLLECT MY FLOORING?

No, as we operate solely online we do not have a shop where you can collect your items.

HOW DO I CHANGE MY NOMINATED DAY DELIVERY DATE?

If you would like to change your delivery date, please visit our tracking page.

CAN I CHANGE MY DELIVERY ADDRESS?

If you would like to change your delivery address, you can do this by visiting our tracking page.

WHAT HAPPENS IF NOBODY IS HOME WHEN MY FLOORING IS BEING DELIVERED?

If no-one is going to be home please visit our tracking page where you will be able to re-arrange your delivery or mention any special delivery requirements.

WHY HAVEN’T I RECEIVED ALL MY ITEMS?

Occasionally we may deliver your order and there may be an item missing this could be for several reasons e.g. it may have been damaged during transit.

If this has happened to you, please contact our Customer Services team.We will do the best we can to ensure you receive your missing item(s) as soon as possible.

RETURNS
HOW DO I RETURN MY ORDER?

• You can return any item for a refund within 30 days of receiving your original order.
• The collection charge may vary. For collections of accessories only, this charge is £29.95. For all other collections: if your order was placed online the collection charge is £59.95, but for in-store orders, this is reduced to £39.95.
• We will refund the price you purchased your item at. This includes sale items. If you’d like a refund for your goods but you can’t return them to us for any reason, then a refund for those goods will be at our discretion.
• All goods will be inspected on return.
• The goods are your responsibility until they reach our warehouse, so make sure it’s packed up properly and can’t get damaged on the way!
• We are not responsible for any items that are returned to us by mistake.
• We try hard to accept all returns and they need to be in the original box or bag and securely packed.
• In the unlikely event that an item is returned to us in an unsuitable condition, we may have to send it back to you.
• Made to measure items, such as carpets, vinyls and artificial grasses, are cut to order for your specific needs. These ‘Made to Measure’ items are subject to a 50% ‘Made to Measure’ fee.

Free Gifts & Related Free / Discount Promotions are excluded from the refundable value.

HAVE YOU GOT MY ORDER BACK?

Once we have collected your returned items they should arrive back with us within 5 working days. We will then process your refund after we have inspected your returned items. If you want to check that we have received your returned order please contact our Customer Service team.

HOW LONG DO I HAVE TO RETURN?

You have 30 days from the day you received your order to return your items.



Click Here To View Our Returns Page

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO GET A REFUND?

After your refund has been processed your refund will take up to 3-5 working days.



Click Here To View Our Returns Page

WHAT DO I DO IF I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY FLOORING/OTHER ITEMS?

If you have a problem with your order please contact our Customer Service team who will take note of your issue and do the best they can to help you.

WEBSITE
WHAT ARE COOKIES?

When you visit most website you will be asked whether you want to accept “Cookies” but a lot of people are unsure of what they are. Cookies are small files, which are stored on your computer. They are created to hold a small amount of data specific to a particular website and can be accessed either by the web server or your computer. This allows the server to deliver a page tailored to you or can carry information from one visit to the website (or related site) to the next.

I AM RECEIVING AN ERROR MESSAGE, WHAT SHOULD I DO?

If you are receiving an error message firstly please refresh your browser or use another. If you still experience the same problem please contact our Customer Service team. We will then do the best we can to sort out your issue.

WHY SHOULD I UPDATE MY BROWSER?

Keeping your web browser up to date helps to eliminate security risks as the newest browsers contain the most up to date and best security patches and also allows the most optimal browsing experience.

WHY DOES THE WEBSITE LOOK DIFFERENT ON MY TABLET AND PHONE TO MY COMPUTER?

Our mobile site was built responsive. This enables it to sense what form of device you are using and adapt to its screen size to ensure you have the best shopping experience possible.

All the products and facilities that are available on our desktop site are also available on our mobile site.

LIVE CHAT

Our website has a live chat facility which allows you to talk directly to our Sales and Customer Service teams in real time. This function is available during working hours.

To use live chat all you need to do is click on the live chat button in the bottom right of your screen when you are viewing the website. This will allow you to enter and send your question or comment directly to our teams. You will be responded to as soon as a member of the team is available.

HOW DO I SEARCH FOR A PRODUCT?

In the top right of our website you will see a search bar. If you click within this bar you can type the name or part of the name of a product or even a sku and it will help to find the product you are looking for or bring up a list of products which match your search.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I FORGET MY PASSWORD?

If you have forgotten your password just click on the following URL, submit your email address and you should receive an email specifying your next steps.

www.flooringsuperstore.com/customer/account/forgotpassword

If you are unable to reset your password using this method, please contact our Customer Services team.
If you don’t receive your email please check your spam and junk folders. If you still can’t find the email, please contact Customer Services using the details listed above.

HOW DO I RATE/REVIEW A PRODUCT/SERVICES?

To submit a review on our product or service you can use the following options. These options will allow you to rate the product/service and also provide us with any comments you have.

1. You will be emailed by an independent review site a few days after your order has been dispatched asking you if you would like to review the product you received and the service we provided.
2. At the bottom of every product page you can click on the Write a Review option to submit any comments you may have.

OTHER QUESTIONS
I’M A TRADER, DO YOU OFFER TRADE DISCOUNT?

We run a trade programme which you can opt to join. The programme enables you to build points and earn extra discounts the more you purchase.

For more information or to join our trade programme please contact our Sales team.

HOW DO I ASK A QUESTION ABOUT A PRODUCT?

There a three ways for you to ask a question about a product:
1. Get in touch via our contact page
2. Talk to our sales team through the live chat on our website
3. At the bottom of each product page there is a question and answer section. Submit your question here and you will receive an email with a response.

CAN YOU ARRANGE FITTING FOR ME?

Fitting is now available, please get in touch with your local store. For more information, click here.

WHY DOES MY WOOD LOOK DIFFERENT TO MY SAMPLE?

There could be a few reasons as to why your sample may look different to your product.

1. Some of the woods intentionally have slightly different shades on each board to provide a more rustic and authentic look.
2. Due to wood being a natural product, there will natural grain and shade variations between each piece.

I’VE SENT YOU AN EMAIL, HOW QUICKLY SHOULD I RECEIVE A RESPONSE?

Once you have submitted your email you should receive a response within 24 hours.

Fitting Guide

Our Prices are usually at least half the price of high street stores because we keep our costs low and can genuinely pass on real savings to you.

Another part of this is cost saving process is fitting, often when buying from a store they will arrange a fitter for you but it will usually be at an extra cost. At Flooring Superstore we only supply but we can provide you with contact details for fitters in your area. You will just need to call them to arrange the fitting and this is often cheaper than letting the store do it for you.

Still unsure? Use the NICF recommended professionals and they offer an independent inspection service for fitter member installation complaints if you are satisfied.

Arranging a Fitter: The National Institute of Carpet & Floorlayers is an easy place to find an approved fitter local to you. http://www.nicfltd.org.uk

What flooring would you like to fit?
Welcome to our handy guide for fitting your wood floor.

Please take note that this guide is written to the best of our knowledge and is intended as a guide only. It is not aimed to replace a qualified fitter. We are not responsible for any reliance on the following advice and do not accept liability for any product issues due to the incorrect fitting of any floor. We do advise customers to hire a qualified fitter. No complaints regarding the appearance of the product will be accepted by the company once the wood has been installed. It is the responsibility of the owner/installer, whether professional or not to determine that the internal conditions are suitable for the installation of their flooring and that it is fitted correctly.

For more detailed technical information, refer to British Standards Wood Installation Guide BS 8201-1987. The Subfloor must conform to BS8204: Part 1 1987

This guide has been created in a chronological order of laying your wood floor however, we do strongly advise you to read the full guide before laying your floor as there may be something further on that will help you with laying your floor.

FITTING: WOOD FLOORING
BEFORE YOU LAY YOUR FLOOR
Where can I fit wood flooring?

Your wood floor can be laid in most internal rooms except those which are prone excessive damp and wet areas e.g. bathrooms. In areas such as a conservatory we advise you to use engineered wood only as long as the room shares the same conditions found in the house.

What tools and materials will I need to lay my wood flooring?

Basics:
Tape measure; Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both); Chalk line & Chalk; Hammer; Electric Power Saw; Carbide tipped saw blade for fine cuts; NIOSH-designated dust mask; Hand saw or jamb saw; Eye protection; Straight edge or spacers; Pry bar; Mallett; Broom; Colour matched wood putty; Tapping block; Pull bar

Additional Supplies, Glue Down Method:
Flooring adhesive; Trowels; Adhesive remover for selected adhesive; Clean rags; Weight roller; Tape; DPM in liquid format (if concrete); Matching finishing touches e.g. Scotia

Additional Supplies, Floating Floor Method:
Flooring Adhesive; Adhesive remover for selected adhesive; Clean rags; Underlay (with in-built DPM if laying over concrete); Matching finishing touches e.g. Scotia

Additional Supplies, Secret Nailing:
Porta-nailer (or alternative nail gun); Lost head nails (32mm if over wooden subfloor, 40mm- 50mm if over joists); Mallet; Matching Finishing Touches e.g. Scotia

This list is a basic list of materials and tools, which you may need. You may need additional supplies to complete your wood flooring.

Delivery and storage of your wood

Before the delivery of your wood flooring:

  • All work involving water, e.g. laying concrete, dry wall and plasterwork must be completed and dried well in advance. A concrete slab must be cured for at least 60 days
  • Conventional heating systems should have been running for a minimum of two weeks
  • Underfloor heating should have been running for a minimum of three weeks
Reason: Due to the natural nature of wood, it will react to any moisture around it and which comes into contact with it and as a result, it will expand and contract. This naturally occurs throughout the year due to the different weather conditions each season and may cause slight gaps between the boards. However, If the humidity fluctuation is excessive, the boards may distort or lift. All possibilities of damp e.g. plumbing etc. should also be checked and repaired if leaking to stop this from occurring.

Acclimatising your wood

Once your flooring has arrived, it is important to open up your boxes of wood in the area they will be fitted or a room with a similar environment for at least 72 hours to let the wood acclimatize to the room.

Your room temperature should consistently be between 15ºc and 25ºc with a relative humidity between 45% and 65%.

To help acclimatise the wood, we advise you to stack the wood in a lattice shape separated by blocks to allow the air to circulate around it and to let it adapt to the room’s environment. Avoid placing the wood near a radiator or heat source.

Do not:
- Store flooring in uncontrolled environmental conditions e.g. garages, exterior patios or sheds.

Subfloor conditions

The subfloor is the floor/base you are laying your wood flooring over.

Note: You should only install wood flooring over moisture sealing floors e.g. hardwood, concrete or ceramic tile.

Before laying your wood floor your subfloor must be:

  • Level.
    • If your concrete flooring isn’t level you will need to use a flexible leveling compound before laying the DPM. This will then need to be thoroughly dried before you lay your floor
  • Stable
  • Clean; with no presence of debris, protrusion of nails or other objects
  • A suitable environment for wood
    • We recommend you assess the suitability of the environment using high quality testing equipment. We advise against using existing or previously laid floors as a guide for the environments suitability for wood flooring. Failing to carry out the correct checks and taking precautionary action leads to a huge amount of wood flooring issues
We advise you to sweep the subfloor before the installation.

Preparing your subfloor

Preparing and checking your subfloor is integral to the installation of wood flooring in order to avoid any possible problems occurring after completion.
Concrete Subfloor
If you are laying your wood floor over a concrete subfloor the concrete must:

  • Be free from any moisture related conditions
  • Have a moisture level of 12% or less
  • Have a DPM (Damp-Proof Membrane) used on top of the concrete to act as a moisture barrier - this will prevent moisture from the subfloor being soaked up by your wood floor
    • If there is a DPM already in place check to see there is no damage. If there is, you will need to lay a new DPM
    • If it is a solid wood that you are installing, the DPM must be stuck to the floor therefore you will need to use DPM in a liquid form
    • If you are laying an Engineered wood you can use either the DPM in a liquid format or an underlay with a DPM barrier inbuilt if you are laying it as a floating floor. If you are using an underlay with DPM barrier you will need to ensure that the edges are overlapped and taped together to avoid any gaps and it must be extended around an inch up the wall at the edges
Hardwood Subfloor
If you are laying your wood floor over a hardwood subfloor the hardwood must:

  • Be free from any moisture related conditions with no moisture build up beneath and between the boards
  • Have a moisture level of 12% or less
  • Have no loose boards or nails protruding out
If you are secret nailing your wood floor we do advise you to lay underlay between the hardwood subfloor and your wood floor.

Just before laying your wood floor over a wooden subfloor a final moisture check should be carried out. The wood you are laying must be within +/- 2% of the surface onto which it is to be fitted.

Suspended ground floors must have sufficient cross ventilation to prevent condensation occurring on the underside of the flooring. It is advisable to lay a suitable membrane over the joists to help protect the undersides of the new boards from moisture.

What method of installation is suitable for my wood flooring and subfloor?

IMPORTANT: It is very important to understand what methods of laying a wood flooring are suitable for your sub floor and the type of wood you are installing. The flow chart below lists the available options for a range of situations. If yours is not listed, or if you have any questions, please contact our sales team on ** who will be more than happy to help you.

WE ADVISE YOU AGAINST LAYING YOUR WOOD FLOOR IN ANY OF THE WAYS NOT LISTED FOR YOUR CIRCUMSTANCES BELOW. Wood Preparation

What do I need to think about before laying my floor?

Before laying your floor there are a few things to think about.

  • What direction are you going to lay the boards? We recommend that the boards should be laid lengthways towards the main incoming light source and, where possible down the length of the room. If laying over a hardwood subfloor we advise the floor to be laid in the opposite direction (90 degrees) to the sub floorboards.
  • Have you done a thorough check to ensure the correct finish and quantity has been received?
  • Is the wood acclimatised to the environment?
    • Will my wood floor have significant variation e.g. board length, colour or natural features? – the selection of boards has a significant affect on the finishing look of the room.
    • We advise you to dry lay the floor prior to installation. This will help you to distribute the variation evenly and stagger the joints to achieve a natural looking floor with good colour and shade mixture. Alternatively, stack your boards into joint length and colours to help choose which boards to lay in what order
    • Any boards that are prominently different can be used as cuts or installed in less obvious areas
  • Will you need to shorten the height of plinths, doors etc. to allow the wooden boards to fit underneath? If so, we recommend that the plinths and doors are removed before laying your floor.
Caution:

  • Power tools can be dangerous. Operate in strict accordance to manufacturer’s operating instructions and safety precautions
  • Unsafe and improper use can cause serious injuries
  • Avoid inhalation and exposure to wood dust by mechanical means and by wearing personal protective equipment
  • Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) which include NIOSH or OSHA approved dust masks, safety goggles and work gloves
  • Not following the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations can lead to installation failure or product damage and will void your warranty
It is extremely important to take precautionary steps NOT to leave finger prints or footprints marks on the face of the board.

Laying underlay

It is important to choose the correct underlay to suit the type of wood you have bought (solid or engineered) and the sub-floor you are laying it over. Please refer to section: What method of installation is suitable for my wood flooring and subfloor?

On our website our underlays are clearly labelled as to whether they are suitable for your floor. E.g. Wood to Wood Underlay would be used for your wooden floor if it was going over a wooden subfloor. DO NOT use carpet underlay for laying wood as it is unsuitable for wood flooring.

Before laying your underlay, remember to sweep or vacuum to ensure the sub-floor is free from debris and remove any protruding nails.

TIP: We advise you to lay your underlay in the opposite direction (90 Degrees) to the direction you are laying your wood floor.

  1. Measure out how much underlay you need and select an underlay suitable for your flooring and sub-floor
  2. Lay your underlay over the entire flooring area placing the lengths side by side
  3. Ensure the underlay extends up the wall by at least 5cm
  4. Trim the underlay to fit with either scissors or a knife
  5. Leave a 5-10mm gap around pipes
  6. Tape the joints securely, making sure the joins don’t overlap (optional)

LAYING THE WOOD FLOOR
Important information

Make sure your work area is well lit. Good visibility will help you to ensure the colour is consistent and that visually defective planks are detected and removed.

We recommend leaving a 7mm to 10mm expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the floor (including doorways and fireplaces) and all vertical obstructions to allow for the natural expansion and contraction movement of the wood due to temperature changes.

Please note, for areas wider than 6 metres you will need an additional 1mm (approximately) expansion gap per additional 1m – this will need to be integrated evenly across the floor. If the area of your flooring is longer than 12m we advise you to put in an expansion gap across the middle of the floor. This can be hidden with a T-profile.

If possible, we advise you to fit the skirting boards after you have installed your wood as they can conceal the expansion gap around the perimeters. If not, you can conceal the gap with beading or scotia.

Remember: Each product used should provide instructions, recommendations and requirements, it is important to read these guidelines and take them on board.

Useful information: The tongue is the thinner extension coming out of the side of the planks. The groove is the wider extension coming out of the other side of the floor plank.

METHOD: Gluing down a wood floor

Please refer to the wood laying method flow chart to check whether this is a suitable method to lay your wood for your situation.

This method of laying involves gluing your wooden floor to your subfloor and gluing in-between each of the planks tongue and grooves. If you are going to glue your floor down to a concrete floor you will need to lay down a liquid form of DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) and let it fully dry before you start laying your wooden floor. If you are going to glue your floor down to a wooden subfloor you will need to use wood-to-wood glue.

We stock the highest quality of adhesives. We recommend that one of our hand selected adhesives formulated for hardwood is used for the installation of your wood floor. Always refer to the specific instructions on the flooring adhesive label and adjust our instructions according to the manufacturers.

Words you may come across:
  • Dry-Lay: Glue has to cure before laying the floor planks on it
  • Wet-Lay: (this is the method we have explained below): The glue does not need to set before laying the floor planks on it


TIP: Continuously check the transfer of adhesive THROUGHOUT the installation process. If the adhesive no longer transfers to the back of the flooring material, it must be removed and a new adhesive should be applied.

1. Along with your starter plank, you will need to remove the tongue off all the planks you are laying in the first row (only the first row as you need to have a straight edge for your expansion gap) so they are ready to install. When possible, begin installation from the straightest wall or start from the centre of a feature e.g. Fireplace or doorway.
TIP: Work your way out of a room.

2. You will then need to mark off (with glue) the width of approximately two planks from the starting line out in the direction of the centre of the room to spread the glue.

3. Make sure you only spread enough glue to install what can be set within 45 minutes (or the length of time the glue manufacturers recommend. (15 Minutes of open time, 30 minutes for actual installation – this usually covers around two rows width). Repeat this process with the next two rows, etc. until you have completed your room.

REMEMBER: Leave an expansion gap around all perimeters of 15mm. Use spacers or boards to maintain this gap during installation.

4. When you have spread the glue for the first two rows you will need to install the first row of boards (minus their tongues). The last plank on this row may have to be cut to size. Discard the remainder of this plank as the tongue has been removed.

REMEMBER: Place the first row of planks with the groove side facing away from the walls.

5. Next, install the second row, make sure there is a random staggering at the end of the joints of at least 15cm. If the plank is longer than the first you can place it next to the first without the need for cutting the plank (Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards correctly in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints).

Staggered Joints

TIP: You could use the offcut from the previous row to start off your next row. This will help to avoid wastage. However, be careful to stagger your joints. This may not work on every floor. You will not be able to do this with the offcut of your first row as this will have its tongue removed.

6. Fill the grooves of the first row of planks with glue.

7. You will then need to hold the plank with the tongue facing the previous row and keep it at a 30° angle when inserting the tongue into the groove of the first row. Ensure that the tongue is secure in the groove by exerting pressure in the direction of the groove whilst pressing the plank down to lock the edge joints. If there is a gap along these joints, use a tapping block and a plastic mallet. Use caution to hinder any impact damage.

REMEMBER: Keep checking to see if the glue has set. If it has and will not transfer to the back of the plank, scrape off the adhesive and apply a fresh layer.

TIP: Any glue that comes in contact with the face of the board should be removed immediately (glue spots can cause damage to the appearance of wood floors especially when dried) using adhesive remover formulated for the glue being used. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instruction on adhesive removal. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue. If the spot removal damages the appearance of the boards, replace the board.

8. Continue to install the remaining rows in the same format, only laying enough adhesive for two rows (or whatever number of rows you have chosen), ensuring there is random staggering at the end joints and throughout the floor and always keeping the expansion gap of 15mm round the perimeter of the room. Make sure there is 100% contact between the wood floor and the adhesive you have laid.

9. For the last row of boards it is likely that you will need to cut them to fit the gap. Remember to leave the 15mm expansion gap between the last row and the wall.

To do this, measure the distance between the floor face edge (exclude the tongue) to the wall. Subtract 15mm from this measurement for the expansion gap. Draw a line on the wood plank. Cut through the line. Discard the excess piece and proceed with installation.

IMPORTANT: The last row of boards need to be at least 50mm wide, you may need to cut the first row of boards to ensure you achieve this.

10. To avoid any gaps between the joints on your last row use the pull bar to draw the last row to fit tightly to the previous row.

METHOD: Secret nailing a wood floor

Please refer to the wood laying method flow chart to check whether this is a suitable method to lay your wood for your situation.

Secret nailing is the installation method where serrated nails are driven on a 45° angle through the tongue of wood floor into the wooden subfloor using a secret nail gun, then simply hammered in for extra security.

If you are going to secret nail your wood floor to your wooden subfloor you will need to firstly lay an underlay over your subfloor (after ensuring the subfloor is in a suitable condition) to act as a moisture and noise barrier.

Please note that 18mm Plywood or Solid wood subfloors will hold the flooring nails better than MDF or chipboard.

1. Firstly, you will need to remove the tongue off all the planks you are laying in the first row (only the first row as you need to have a straight edge for your expansion gap) so they are ready to install. When possible, begin the installation from the longest and straightest wall or feature wall e.g. fireplace or door. However, we do strongly recommend that you lay your wood floor at 90° perpendicular to your floorboards.

TIP: Work your way out of a room.

TIP: Ensure you use suitable flooring nails throughout the laying process. You will need to use 32mm* lost head nails or the nails provided with your Porta-Nailer (nail gun)– only if using on hardwood /floorboard subfloor, for structured floors the nails will need to be 40mm to 50mm lost head nails.

*We don’t advise you to use nails any bigger than this as they could go through the floorboards and hit pipes etc.

REMEMBER: Leave an expansion gap around all perimeters of 15mm. Use spacers or boards to maintain this gap during installation.

2. You will then need to install the first row of starter planks. The last plank on this row may have to be cut to size. Discard the remainder of this plank as the tongue has been removed.

REMEMBER: Place the first row of planks with the groove side facing away from the walls.

3. For the first two rows of your floor they will need to be face-fixed (Vertically). I.e. Drill a fine hole into the wood floor and then nail it through into the sub floor. Sink the nail head with a punch then fill the whole.

TIP: Take care not to allow the nails to penetrate further than the sub floor and to not damage any pipes or electrical cables beneath.

4. From then on you need to secret nail the floor down. This involves driving a serrated nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the wood plank using a secret nail gun then simply hammered in for extra security (be careful not to hit too hard as to not break the boards. This ensures that the boards are secured tight against each other, will remain in place and will not show any nails in the finished look.

Generally you will need to secret nail the tongue of the wood at 150mm – 200mm intervals – If the board is wider we recommend narrower spacing.

The boards should fit snugly together at each join. If they don’t there could be debris in the groove or the tongue may be damaged. Clear this before you nail the board down.

TIP: You could use the offcut from the previous row to start off your next row this will help to avoid wastage. However, be careful to stagger your joints. This may not work on every floor. You will not be able to do this with the offcut of your first row as this will have its tongue removed.

5. Keep nailing the boards down until you have completed the room. For your last row of boards it is likely that you will need to cut the width of the board down to ensure you are left with the 15mm expansion gap between the row and the wall.

To do this, measure the distance between the floor face edge (exclude the tongue) to the wall. Subtract 15mm from this measurement for the expansion gap. Draw a line on the wood plank. Cut through the line. Discard the excess piece and proceed with installation.

IMPORTANT: The last row of boards need to be at least 50mm wide, you may need to cut the first row of boards to ensure you achieve this.

REMEMBER: Take care to make sure there is a random staggering at the end of the joints of at least 15cm. If the plank is longer than the first you can place it next to the first without the need for cutting the plank (be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards correctly in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints).

Staggered Joints

We recommend the use of Porta-Nailer when secret nailing your floor. They are highly recognised throughout the industry, reliable and easy to use.

METHOD: Laying a floating wood floor

Please refer to the wood laying method flow chart to check whether this is a suitable method to lay your wood for your situation.

We highly recommend that before you lay the wood, an underlay is laid (if you are laying over concrete, the underlay will need to have an in-built DAMP-PROOF MEMBRANE or alternatively you can use a liquid form of DPM over the concrete with underlay over the top) over the wooden or concrete subfloor to provide cushioning and moisture resistance between the floor and sub floor.

When laying a floating floor you will need to use Engineered Wood only. This method involves laying (floating) the wood floor on top of underlay and gluing in-between the tongue and groove of each board.

We stock the highest quality of adhesives. We advise that a non-water based premium adhesive formulated for hardwood is used for the installation of your wood floor. Always refer to the specific instructions on the flooring adhesive label and adjust our instructions according to the manufacturers.

TIP: Continuously check the transfer of adhesive THROUGHOUT the installation process. If the adhesive no longer transfers to the tongue or groove of the plank it must be removed and a new adhesive applied. Normally a glue will set within 45 minutes which includes 15 minutes of open time and 30 minutes for installation (please check your glue packaging for details as this may change between brands and glue types).

1. Firstly, you will need to remove the tongue off all the planks you are laying in the first row (only the first row as you need to have a straight edge for your 15mm expansion gap) so they are ready to install. The last plank on your first row may have to be cut to size so you are left with your 15mm expansion gap. Discard the remainder of this plank as the tongue has been removed.

When possible, begin the installation from the longest and straightest wall or from a feature point e.g. fireplace or doorway– However, if you are laying over a wooden subfloor, we do strongly recommend that you lay your wood floor at 90° perpendicular to your floorboards.

TIP: Work your way out of a room.

Remember: Leave an expansion gap around all perimeters of 15mm. Use spacers or boards to maintain this gap during installation.

Remember: Place the first row of planks with the groove side facing away from the walls.

2. Next, install the second row, make sure there is a random staggering at the end of the joints of at least 15cm. If the plank is longer than the first you can place it next to the first without the need for cutting the plank (Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards correctly in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints).

Staggered Joints

TIP: You could use the offcut from the previous row to start off your next row this will help to avoid wastage. However, be careful to stagger your joints. This may not work on every floor. You will not be able to do this with the offcut of your first row as this will have its tongue removed.

3. Fill the grooves of the first row of planks with glue.

4. You will need to hold the plank with the tongue facing the previous row and keep it at a 30° angle when inserting the tongue into the groove of the first row. Ensure that the the tongue is secure in the groove by exerting pressure in the direction of the groove whilst pressing the plank down to lock the edge joints. If there is a gap along these joints, use a tapping block and a plastic mallet. Use caution to hinder any impact damage.

TIP: Any glue that comes in contact with the face of the board should be removed immediately (glue spots can cause damage to the appearance of wood floors especially when dried) using adhesive remover formulated for the glue being used. Follow adhesive manufacturer’s instruction on adhesive removal. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue. If the spot removal damages the appearance of the boards, replace the board.

5. Continue to install the remaining rows ensuring there is random staggering at the end joints and throughout the floor and always keeping the expansion gap of 15mm round the perimeter of the room.

6. For your last row of boards it is likely that you will need to cut the width of the board down to ensure you are left with the 15mm expansion gap between the row and the wall.

To do this, measure the distance between the floor face edge (exclude the tongue) to the wall. Subtract 15mm from this measurement for the expansion gap. Draw a line on the wood plank. Cut through the line. Discard the excess piece and proceed with installation

IMPORTANT: The last row of boards need to be at least 50mm wide, you may need to cut the first row of boards to ensure you achieve this.

METHOD: Laying wood on a structured floor

Please refer to the wood laying method flow chart to check whether this is a suitable method to lay your wood for your situation.

When laying wood on a structured floor (joists) you will need to use the Secret-Nailing method.

Only solid wood flooring boards over 20mm thick can be fixed over sound and secure joists. When laying boards directly onto existing joists the gap between the joists should not exceed 400mm.

Remember: As there is no sub-floor you will need to install the flooring perpendicular (90°) to the joists.

TIP: We strongly advise you to use fixed length boards of 1860mm when laying wood on a structured Floor to avoid having unusable sized boards.

Important: there must be a moisture barrier below the joists to ensure the wood does not soak up the moisture.

Suspended ground floors must have sufficient cross ventilation to prevent condensation occurring on the underside of the flooring. It is advisable to lay a suitable membrane over the joists to help protect the undersides of the new boards from moisture.

TIP: Work your way out of a room.

TIP: Ensure you use suitable flooring nails throughout the laying process. These will need to be either 40mm or 50mm lost head nails depending on the width of the board.

1. You will firstly need to remove the tongue off all the starter planks you are laying in the first row (only the first row as you need to have a straight edge for your expansion gap) so they are ready to install.

The last plank on this row may have to be cut to size so it fits in the remaining gap whilst still leaving a 15mm expansion gap. Discard the remainder of this plank as the tongue has been removed.

Remember: Leave an expansion gap around all perimeters of 15mm. Use spacers or boards to maintain this gap during installation.

Remember: Place the first row of planks with the groove side facing away from the walls.

2. Each board will need to be secret nailed to the joists. This consists of driving a nail on a 45° angle through the tongue of wood floor into the joists using a secret nail gun then simply hammering the nail in for extra security. You will need to do this at each section the wood floor crosses the joists.

TIP: Run a bead of glue along each of the joists for extra security and stability.

The boards should fit snugly together at each join. If they don’t there could be debris in the groove or the tongue may be damaged. Clear this before you nail the board down.

3. Keep nailing the boards down until you have completed the room. For your last row of boards it is likely that you will need to cut the width of the board down to ensure you are left with the 15mm expansion gap between the row and the wall.

To do this, measure the distance between the floor face edge (exclude the tongue) to the wall. Subtract 15mm from this measurement for the expansion gap. Draw a line on the wood plank. Cut through the line. Discard the excess piece and proceed with installation

IMPORTANT: The last row of boards need to be at least 50mm wide, you may need to cut the first row of boards to ensure you achieve this.

Remember: Take care to make sure there is a random staggering at the end of the joints of at least 15cm. If the plank is longer than the first you can place it next to the first without the need for cutting the plank (Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards correctly in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints).

Staggered Joints

We recommend the use of a Porta-Nailer and Nails when secret nailing your floor. They are highly recognised throughout the industry, reliable and easy to use.

Sound control underlayment

Check with sound control manufacturer for application guidelines. Generally, the less compressive underlayment is preferred.

Underfloor heating

If you are installing underfloor heating you will need to use Engineered Wood only. You must make your underfloor heating supplier aware that a wood floor will be installed over their system.

The underfloor heating system must be ran as per the manufacturer’s guidelines for at least three weeks prior to the wood installation. The heating should then be turned off and allowed to cool prior to the installation.

Over water systems we would recommend you to use adhesive and a layer of liquid DPM to lay the floor down or with underlay and laid as a floating floor. Over electric mat systems, where the electric mat is not the main source of heating, the engineered boards can be floated.

When the wood flooring installation is complete and dried (if using adhesive), increase the underfloor heating temperature gradually so the wood can adjust to the heat. The operating surface temperature of the new wooden floor must not exceed 27ºc (81ºf). Significant damage may occur to the flooring if this is not adhered to.

Glue down installation may require an additional installation requirement. Contact the glue manufacturer and heater manufacture for specific recommendations and instructions.

Fitting wood flooring around a radiator pipe

To fit your wood flooring around a radiator pipe you will need to follow the below steps (you will need a jigsaw to do this task):

1. Remove your radiator
2. Mark out the width of the radiator pipe on the plank in the location the pipe will come through the board
3. Add 15mm to your pipe width and mark a circle 15mm bigger to allow for expansion
4. Drill a hole in the middle of the marking you have made (wide enough for the jigsaw blade to fit through)
5. Insert the jigsaw into the hole and work your way out to the edge of the pipe + the 15mm marking
6. Slowly work your way round the circle so you will end up with a circle piece of wood cut out of your plank
7. You will then have a hole in your flooring. Lay the plank down in place with the radiator pipe coming through the hole.
8. Fix the board down using the same laying method you have used for the rest of your flooring
9. Apply your radiator ring to hide the expansion gap
a. FC radiator rings are self-adhesive
b. Solid radiator rings use a click system and will need to be glued down to your floor

COMPLETING YOUR WOOD FLOOR
How to finish your wood floor

To finish your floor you will need to take the following actions:

  • Clean the floor – only using a brush, dry mop and specialised wood cleaning products
  • Use matching putty where necessary
  • Install or reinstall scotia, beading and skirting boards to the wall, not the subfloor to avoid restricting the expansion gap
  • Tip: Lay out your finishing touches in advance so you can find the planks whose shade closely matches them
  • Install transition trim pieces e.g. T-profiles, nailing them to the sub floor at doorways etc. This helps protect the edges of the floor and provides a decorative transition from one floor type to another
(If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.)

After the installation is completed, keep the floor free from daily foot traffic for a minimum of 24 hours to allow adhesive to properly cure.

Other key bits of information:

Do:

  • Place protector pads on the base of chair legs or furniture bases resting on the wood floor
  • Ensure that areas underneath rugs and mats stay dry and are cleaned on a regular basis to prevent abrasion
  • Regularly sweep or vacuum to remove any dirt and grit which may abrade the surface finish
  • Use specialist cleaning products which are suitable for the type of finish on your flooring
  • Avoid sharp items coming into contact with your floor
Do Not:
  • Place permanently installed structures such as kitchen counters/cabinets on the installed floor
  • Use wet mops, as excessive moisture will damage your floor
  • Leave grit or dirt on the floor as this will damage and scratch the surface.
  • Use all-purpose cleaning products unless specifically for use on wood floors.